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At the 3rd China Textile Intangible Cultural Heritage Conference held on November 3, Gao Yong, Secretary of the Party Committee of the China Textile Industry Federation, delivered a keynote report on the topic of "Opening a New Era of Textile Intangible Heritage and Development. The original text of the speech is published as follows:

Opening a new era of textile non-heritage inheritance and development

Gao Yong, Party Secretary of China Textile Industry Federation

3 November 2019

The 3rd China Textile Intangible Cultural Heritage Conference

Today we hold the third China Textile Intangible Cultural Heritage Conference in the beautiful Kunming University of Yunnan. At this conference, there are many important historical nodes. The whole country is celebrating the 70th anniversary of New China. Socialism with Chinese characteristics has entered a new era. The main social contradiction has turned to the contradiction between the people's growing demand for a better life and unbalanced and insufficient development. On the basis of realizing a well-off society in an all-round way in 2020, China has begun to strive towards a modern and powerful socialist country. From the perspective of the textile industry, the goal of becoming a powerful textile country has been basically achieved. It has become the main strategic goal and task of the textile industry in the new era to further consolidate the competitive advantage of the industry, promote the industry towards high-quality development, and realize the new expectations of the people for a better life. The industry will also enter a new era, providing important cultural soft power support for the further transformation and upgrading of the industry and the realization of future strategic goals.

To this end, the main task of this conference is to explore the strategic deployment and working ideas of "opening a new era of textile non-genetic inheritance and development. Next, I will focus on two aspects for your discussion.

　　A textile non-heritage business has made remarkable achievements and major problems.

The achievements are summarized in the following three aspects:

　　First, the direction of textile intangible cultural heritage is clear, and a good ecological environment has begun to take shape.The spirit of the documents of the central and national ministries and commissions on promoting Chinese excellent traditional culture and revitalizing traditional crafts has become the ideological guidance and action guide for textile intangible cultural heritage work. The textile intangible cultural heritage work has been effectively connected with the implementation of relevant national strategies, which has contributed to the integrated development of culture and tourism., Rural poverty alleviation and revitalization, promotion of consumption upgrades, and the construction of the "Belt and Road" have played a positive role. As an important part of China's intangible cultural heritage, textile intangible cultural heritage embodies the historical and cultural essence of spinning, dyeing, weaving, embroidering, printing handicrafts and national costumes handed down from generation to generation in China. It has been paid more and more attention by all sectors of society. Government departments at all levels, industry organizations, enterprises and institutions, design and brand institutions, colleges and universities, and news media have unified their understanding of the importance and urgency of the inheritance and development of textile intangible cultural heritage, give full play to their respective roles and form a joint force, the development of textile intangible cultural heritage has begun to form a good social and industry atmosphere, especially colleges and universities have done a lot of exploration and innovation in discipline construction, investigation and research, research and training, design integration and other aspects, providing certain human resources for textile intangible cultural heritage.

　　Second, the textile non-heritage business is gradually forming a chain of inheritance and promotion system.Intangible cultural heritage inheritors and inheritors, intangible cultural heritage protection and research institutions, fashion design and brand operation, capital injection and park construction, social charity activities, industry exhibitions and fashion weeks, etc., integrate resources through various inheritance communication methods and platforms, Gradually form a diversified inheritance chain of textile intangible cultural heritage, and jointly promote the development of textile intangible cultural heritage. In particular, designers go deep into the rural fields to obtain a large number of intangible cultural heritage elements, promote the integration of traditional skills and modern fashion design, and show their confidence and love for Chinese multi-ethnic traditional culture on the fashion stage at home and abroad. Textile intangible cultural heritage has been closely integrated with poverty alleviation, employment expansion and rural revitalization in many ethnic areas, and has played a positive role. It has brought benefits and dignity to thousands of left behind women and craftsmen. "Made by mothers", "signed embroidery Niang handicraft workshop" and "deep mountain market" are successful operation modes. The common people's awareness of textile intangible cultural heritage products has also increased. Through exhibitions, fashion releases, on-site experience, commercial promotion, online sales, etc., on many market promotion platforms, they have both spiritual enjoyment and material aspects. Taste and satisfaction, consumption is becoming an important market driving force for the development of textile intangible cultural heritage.

　　Third, the non-heritage work of the China Textile Union has made significant progress.As a national conference organized by industry organizations, the annual industry intangible cultural heritage conference has become an important platform for displaying the development achievements of textile intangible cultural heritage and exchanging ideas. The voice of the conference has the role of a weather vane. The non-heritage promotion ambassador has become the spokesperson and leader of the textile non-heritage cause, and the conference has become a brand activity of the industry. China International Fashion Week and "Splendid China" non-heritage clothing show have become the commanding heights of the integrated development and release of traditional textile technology and modern fashion design. Various textile intangible cultural heritage exhibitions have been held in Beijing, Shanghai, Dalian, Chaozhou and other places to promote the marketization of traditional craft products and move towards contemporary life, which has won high attention and praise from both inside and outside the industry. Attach importance to the field investigation of textile intangible cultural heritage, and successively went to Tibet, Yunnan, Guizhou, Hunan, Chongqing, Inner Mongolia and other places, focusing on ethnic minority areas, finding out the survival and development of grassroots inheritors, and looking for the focus of industry intangible cultural heritage work. The government departments made suggestions and suggestions on the revitalization of traditional crafts. Among them, the achievements of the Mongolian embroidery industry in Keyou Zhongqi, Inner Mongolia were affirmed at the industry level. Compile and publish the "China Textile Intangible Cultural Heritage Development Report", which records the historical development process of the intangible cultural heritage of the textile industry and the imprint of the intangible cultural heritage work of China Textile Federation. Actively coordinate the academic research work of the traditional craft of Chaozhou embroidery, and organize domestic authoritative experts to compile exclusive monographs on the history, culture and techniques of Chaozhou embroidery, which will be officially published by China Textile Publishing House, providing a reference template for the study of other traditional textile techniques.

While affirming the achievements, we should see that there are still many problems facing the textile non-heritage industry that need to be explored and solved. The main ones are: how to combine the actual situation of the industry to more effectively promote the creative transformation and innovative development of the textile intangible cultural heritage, and scientifically and reasonably solve the dialectical relationship between "keeping" and "changing"; there are still many gaps in the basic research of traditional textile technology. Fill in, objectively and systematically study and excavate the authenticity of textile intangible cultural heritage and the cultural and economic value of modern inheritance and development; the integration of non-heritage traditional crafts into modern clothing, household goods, cultural tourism, artistic creation and other series of product design and development needs to be further expanded; how to establish the cooperation and economic coordination mechanism of all relevant parties in the textile non-heritage inheritance chain, so as to open up and stabilize the sustainable operation of this chain needs in-depth discussion and practice; non-heritage design shows more but less consumption, non-heritage international cultural exchanges but less trade, non-heritage textile products market channels are not smooth, consumption power is insufficient; the development of textile intangible heritage protection and inheritance is unbalanced, and the pattern of complementary development should be realized due to different resource endowments in the eastern and western regions.

The above problems are the main problems in the development of textile non-genetic undertakings, and some of them belong to the same common problems as other industries. Of course, it is impossible for us to be confused and depressed because of the existence of these problems or problems. We must strengthen our confidence in the development of the textile non-heritage cause, watch the general trend continue to move forward, and welcome the new era of textile non-heritage inheritance and development.

　　Second, seize the development opportunity to open a new era of textile non-heritage inheritance and development.

Looking at the overall situation of the country and the industry, our textile intangible cultural heritage business is at many important historical nodes, facing many important development opportunities and work entry points. Specific analysis, there are generally the following four aspects worthy of our attention:

　　First,my country's economic and social development has entered a new era. It highly emphasizes cultural self-confidence, promotes excellent traditional culture, and looks forward to a better life for the people. This should be the fundamental purpose and strategic pursuit of the development of textile intangible cultural heritage. Textile intangible cultural heritage should become a dazzling flower of civilization in China's intangible cultural heritage family. In the historical process of China's entry into a new era, we should play the role of beautifying life, decorating the world and pursuing fashion with the times, and wholeheartedly build the material carrier and spiritual home of traditional culture, highlighting the wisdom of contemporary life and repose the people's good wishes.

　　Second,China's textile industry has become an industry with world influence. Recently, Zhou Ji, former president of the Chinese Academy of Engineering, introduced the "Safety Evaluation report of China's Industrial chain" studied by the Chinese Academy of Engineering. After international comparative analysis, the five major industries of textile and communication equipment, advanced rail transit, power transmission and transformation equipment, and household appliances are assessed as the world's leading industries, which is basically consistent with the current development level of our industry. Entering the new era, we are no longer the so-called traditional labor-intensive industries. "Technology, fashion, and green" have become the new positioning of the textile industry. The three complement each other and are integrated. The "fashion" should be combined with traditional culture and Traditional craftsmanship can have "foundation" and "soul". World leadership should not only be manufacturing leadership, culture should also be recognized by the world, and the textile non-heritage industry should make special contributions to this mission.

　　Third,The industrial resources and social support system for the inheritance and development of textile intangible cultural heritage have begun to take shape. Only by unifying the goals of opening and entering the new era, coordinating the operation system and economic mechanism, and building a platform for interdependence and joint promotion, the textile intangible cultural heritage industry will certainly be able to go hand in hand with the country, society and the textile industry, and with the textile construction of a powerful country, To help maintain the world's leading industrial position, textile non-heritage business can bloom more dazzling brilliance.

　　Fourth,With the comprehensive completion of a well-off society, people's cultural consumption will increase day by day. With the enhancement of cultural self-confidence and the aesthetic and functional orientation of intangible cultural heritage products closer to modern life, traditional consumer goods will become an important source of leading the consumption trend. Textile intangible cultural heritage consumer goods are closely related to people's daily life. There are many categories, wide distribution and large demand. Traditional crafts are easy to combine with modern fashion design. There will be a market space that may be expanded in the fields of clothing, home furnishing, tourism, cultural creation, art, etc. Consumption at the spiritual and material levels will increasingly become the main driving force for the development of textile intangible cultural heritage. The development opportunities described above provide an important prerequisite for opening a new era of textile non-heritage inheritance and development, and the implementation of the report of the 19th CPC National Congress that "to carry forward Chinese excellent traditional culture must adhere to creative transformation and innovative development." it is the guiding principle for the development of textile non-heritage in the new era, and advocates the promotion of Chinese excellent traditional culture and the revitalization of traditional craftsmanship in the country, in a good atmosphere where governments at all levels and all sectors of society attach great importance to the protection and inheritance of intangible cultural heritage, the textile industry must further actively respond to the call of the state to synchronize with the society, and under the guidance and policy support of the competent government departments, cooperate with relevant institutions, and strive to promote the close integration of textile intangible cultural heritage in traditional culture and real production and life, in order to practice the dream of "science and technology, fashion and green" textile power and consolidate the world's leading industrial position, we should further deepen and implement the intangible cultural heritage work, and strive to open a new era of textile non-genetic inheritance and development.

As the coordinating service organization of intangible cultural heritage in the industry, China Textile Industry Federation will give full play to its own resources and platform advantages on the basis of summarizing previous work practices, and actively explore effective ways to open a new era of textile non-genetic inheritance and development. We will carry out our work in accordance with the following ideas:

　　First,Enhance the consciousness, practicality and foresight of implementing the concept of "creative transformation and innovative development", include the inheritance and development of textile non-genetic heritage in the preparation of the industry's "14th Five-Year Plan", and combine the national intangible cultural heritage work macro policy and industry The overall requirements of development, put forward the goal direction, tasks and measures for the development of the industry's intangible cultural heritage, as the basic follow and work guidelines for the development of the industry's intangible cultural heritage.

　　Second,Under the condition of actively cooperating with cultural departments, scientific research institutes and colleges and universities to study and protect the traditional textile non-heritage skills, give full play to the advantages of industry and enterprise resource integration, and make every effort to build the inheritance chain, economic mechanism and market operation system of the integration and development of traditional textile technology and fashion design, modern science and technology, production and processing, and channel construction, so as to realize the connection between the source intangible resources and the terminal life consumption, truly achieve "see people, see things, see life", and realize the living inheritance of textile intangible cultural heritage production and life.

　　Third,We should further give full play to the advantages of industry expositions and fashion weeks, lead the fashion trend of combining intangible cultural heritage with modern life, encourage designers and brand enterprises to take the inheritance of traditional culture and technology as their responsibility and mission, and strive to create textile intangible cultural heritage brand products that integrate intangible cultural heritage elements and can be produced, circulated and consumed, so as to meet people's spiritual and material needs for traditional culture, Promote the unity of textile intangible cultural value and economic value.

　　Fourth,In view of the fact that most of my country's textile intangible cultural heritage resources are distributed in ethnic minority areas, and the western ethnic provinces are more concentrated, more assistance and resource input are needed, although some non-governmental organizations, public welfare foundations and entrepreneurs with public ethics have done a lot However, as a national industry organization, we must attach great importance to and actively promote the protection and inheritance of ethnic minority textiles, and help targeted poverty alleviation and rural revitalization, in order to fully demonstrate the social responsibility and public welfare spirit of the textile non-heritage cause.

　　Fifth,Promote the cross-border integration of textile intangible cultural heritage and cultural tourism, arts and crafts, home decoration, folk weddings, film and television drama performances and other related industries and cultural and creative enterprises, and use the construction of the "Belt and Road" and foreign cultural and economic and trade exchanges to spread China's textile intangible cultural heritage The history and brilliance created by the industry will increase brand awareness in the world, in order to build and consolidate the protection and inheritance system of Chinese excellent traditional culture and traditional crafts, tell the story of textile, bloom textile wind color, make textile contribution.

Comrades and friends, let us follow the strategic deployment of the party and the state on promoting the excellent traditional culture of the Chinese nation and revitalizing traditional crafts, closely integrate the overall requirements of the development of the textile industry, keep pace with the times, make solid progress, seek truth and be pragmatic, and work together. Make unremitting efforts to open a new era of textile non-genetic inheritance and development.

Source from "China Textile Economic Information Network www.ctei.cn",