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On June 28, Gao Yong, Secretary of the Party Committee and Secretary-General of the China National Textile and Apparel Council, made a keynote speech on the new trend of industry development at the 2019 National Chemical Fiber Long Silk Fabric Product Development Annual Conference and Technological Innovation Seminar, which aroused among the participants. Strong response. the full text of the speech is as follows:

Speech at the 2019 National Chemical Fiber Long Silk Fabric Product Development Annual Meeting and Technology Innovation Seminar

New Development Trend of Textile Industry

Gao Yong

　　The goal of 1. a textile power has been basically achieved.

China's textile industry has been in a low growth stage for 3-4 years in a row. In 2018, the main business income of the whole industry was 5371 billion billion yuan, with a year-on-year growth of slightly more than 5%. Compared with the national economy in the medium and high-speed growth stage of about 6%, the main business income, added value and export of the textile industry are all at a low growth level. In the past 40 years, the average annual growth rate of world fiber consumption is about 3%, slightly higher than the population growth rate. In the past 20 years, the average annual growth rate of China's fiber consumption is about 9%.

Although the textile industry has entered a stage of low-speed growth, all employees in the textile industry have fully realized that low-speed growth will be the norm, and have accelerated the pace of industrial adjustment accordingly. The report of the 19th National Congress of the Communist Party of China pointed out that my country's economy has shifted from a stage of high-speed growth to a stage of high-quality development, and is in a critical period of transforming development mode, optimizing economic structure, and transforming growth momentum. This is also the stage of development of China's textile industry. According to the relevant requirements of the Party Central Committee's "Do not forget your initiative mind, Keeping in mind the mission" theme education activities, we have made some new judgments on the development trend of the textile industry: the "Outline of Textile Power" and the "13th Five-Year Plan" plan to basically build a textile power by 2020. From the specific indicators, in addition to a few indicators slightly behind the world's advanced level, the vast majority of indicators are close to or even ahead of the world's advanced level, "textile power" goal has been basically achieved. In the face of the upcoming "14th Five-Year Plan", how to fully realize the high-quality development of the textile industry in the new historical conditions, new era and new development stage is a problem that the whole industry should think deeply about.

Since April this year, the number of orders, product prices and inventory growth have decreased. In my opinion, the main reason for the above-mentioned phenomenon is that the market wait-and-see caused by Sino-US trade friction and international buyers do not order. Generally speaking, companies can receive orders for the whole year from April to May of that year, but this year international buyers have not placed orders as scheduled. So far, many companies' orders have only been in August and September, and the later orders have not been confirmed, which makes companies panic. The backlog of fabrics, the backlog of raw materials, the decline in raw material prices, etc., are only temporary phenomena, is the performance of the market in the wait-and-see stage.

　　2. Continues to Push Forward "Two Adjustments"

The impact of Sino-US trade friction is temporary and short-term, but in the long run, it is necessary to change the export-oriented industrial development mode to achieve high-quality development of the textile industry. This requires us to continue to promote the "two adjustments".

　　1. Regional structural adjustment

The first is international structural adjustment, that is, the transfer of labor-intensive and export-oriented production capacity to low-cost countries and low-cost regions. This part of the transfer has developed rapidly in the past few years, especially in the clothing industry-clothing exports have changed from rapid growth to zero growth, or even negative growth. The export ratio of clothing and textiles is close to 50:50, and it is expected that this ratio will reach 1:1 within this year. In 2018, the annual export value of textile and clothing was 276.7 billion US dollars. If the contents of Chapter 94 (mattress, sleeping bag and other bedding) in the import and export statistics of textile and clothing are added, the export value will exceed 280 billion US dollars, up 3.69 percent year on year. The 3.69 per cent increase was mainly driven by textile exports. By April this year, the total growth rate of textile and clothing exports was about-3%, of which clothing exports were about-8%. It can be seen that, on the one hand, China's clothing production capacity has basically completed the industrial transfer to Southeast Asia, South Asia and other regions; on the other hand, China's textile exports to Southeast Asia, Africa and other regions are growing rapidly.

There are two reasons for the transfer of international production capacity: First, the economic trend, labor-intensive industries always flow to low-cost areas, just like the transfer from the United States, Japan, South Korea, and Taiwan to mainland China 20 years ago. International buyers take orders as chips and require enterprises to set up factories in South Asia, Southeast Asia and Africa, which speeds up this part of the transfer. Second, the promotion of the domestic Belt and Road policy has accelerated the speed of outward transfer of production capacity. At present, the regional structural adjustment is rapidly extending from the clothing industry to the textile industry.

The second is domestic restructuring. In the past, more than 86% of the production capacity of China's textile and garment industry was concentrated in the coastal provinces of Guangdong, Fujian, Zhejiang, Jiangsu and Shandong. The China Textile Industry Federation has long been committed to the adjustment of the domestic industrial structure. From the "Eleventh Five-Year Plan" period to promote the transfer of textile production capacity to the west, to the "13th Five-Year Plan" period, we are in accordance with the Party Central Committee to accelerate the textile and garment industry to Xinjiang. The transfer of textile production capacity into Xinjiang-within a few years, Xinjiang's cotton spinning spindles increased by 18 million spindles, and achieved results.

In recent years, with the rapid improvement of China's economic level, domestic sales have become the main force to support the textile economy and promote the sustainable development of China's textile industry. In this context, the textile production capacity in the central region began to grow, such as Henan, Hunan, and Anhui; the transfer speed of the Yangtze River Delta region accelerated, such as the transfer of production capacity from southern Jiangsu to northern Jiangsu. It is worth noting that the Party Central Committee recently approved the development plan for the Yangtze River Delta region. In the new development plan, the textile and garment industry is still the key development industry in the Yangtze River Delta region, and it is included in the policy of "accelerating the transfer of advantageous industries in the Yangtze River Delta region.

Today, we are holding the annual product meeting in Siyang, which is also an effort to promote the transfer of filament weaving industry to Siyang, Suqian and other regions and optimize the industrial structure. Industrial transfer is a trend, and it is also the work that everyone is discussing and participating in. Only by gradually adjusting the regional structure can the textile and garment industry develop better.

　2. Adjustment of industrial structure and product structure

In addition to the adjustment of regional structure, the adjustment of industrial structure and product structure is also continuously advancing. For example, in view of the low proportion of industrial textiles in the whole industry, the Eleventh five-year Plan proposes that we should vigorously develop industrial textiles and strive to reach 17% by the end of the Eleventh five-year Plan. It also points out the tasks and categories that industrial textiles should focus on. The 13th Five-Year Plan points out that by 2020, the processing volume of industrial textile fibers will account for 33% of the whole industry. Judging from the fact that the proportion of industrial textiles has accounted for 28% in 2018, by 2020, the target of 33% can basically be achieved, and the structure and industrial upgrading of industrial textiles have achieved certain results. In the past, except for clothing and home textiles, the rest were classified as industrial textiles. Therefore, the categories of industrial textiles are very wide. We have focused on the development of 8 categories, and they have all developed relatively well. The specific development content will not be detailed one by one.

　　3. filament products have been dominant in textiles

Filament textiles have a long history in China. Historically, the Chinese liked silk textiles, while the Europeans favored linen textiles. When the rise of cotton fiber, the world's textiles are transformed into cotton-based. However, natural fibers have not grown much in the past few decades. At present, the world's cotton output is about 25 million tons, and the wool output is about 110-1.2 million tons. It is expected that the output of cotton and wool will maintain the status quo for a long time in the future. Judging from the current situation, natural fibers will not increase much in the future.

At present, the total output of fiber in the world is about 9000 million tons, and it is expected to reach 0.1 billion tons by 2020. More than 9000 million tons of fiber production in 70% of the chemical fiber, about 65 million tons, of which the chemical fiber filament is about more than 4000 tons. It can be seen that the chemical fibers are dominated by filaments. Most of the world's more than 4000 million tons of chemical fiber filaments are produced in China. According to the statistics of China Textile Industry Federation, the processing capacity of chemical fiber filament in China has reached more than 3000 million tons in 2018.

Compared with staple fiber, chemical fiber filament has the advantages of short process route and low price, and is widely used in woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and non-woven fabrics. In the past two years, the rapid development of a molded vamp, a molded underwear, spinning and melting method, meltblown woven non-woven fabrics, raw materials are chemical fiber filaments; almost all carpet raw materials in the United States are BCF filaments; many home textile products, such as curtains, are basically chemical fiber filament products. The above examples show that chemical fiber filament products have occupied a dominant position in textiles and will play a more important role; the development of the world's textile industry will also rely on the chemical fiber filament weaving industry.

Our research on chemical fiber filament has experienced a long process of development. Initially committed to the improvement of fiber diameter, the realization of the change from coarse denier, fine denier to ultra-fine denier; and then committed to the improvement of the shape, such as increasing the surface area to improve water absorption, to improve the warmth of hollow, fine holes, etc., now, these are conventional products. Now we are committed to the filament modified, hybrid, so that its performance is more and more close to natural fibers. In the face of the continuous evolution and development of chemical fiber filaments, enterprises also attach great importance to the development, design and post-processing of filament fabrics. We improve the fabric style by twisting, untwisting, adding elasticity and other processes of chemical fiber filaments, and carry out unique structural design, special dyeing and finishing processing of long fiber fabrics, so that chemical fiber filament products are constantly being innovated.

Development Trend of 4. Filament Weaving Industry

1. Application of air-jet loom in filament weaving industry

At the just-concluded European International Textile Machinery Exhibition, we saw that many new equipment and new technologies are oriented to the chemical fiber filament weaving industry. International advanced equipment manufacturers have focused their attention on the chemical fiber filament weaving industry, which shows that this is indeed an industry with good development prospects.

At present, the main production equipment of filament weaving industry is water jet loom, which is because the speed of water jet loom is fast and the price is low, which makes the cost per meter of cloth very low. But in the face of green, environmental protection, water-saving requirements, the entire industry still has a demand for air-jet looms. If the overall price and production cost of the air-jet loom can be reduced, and even similar to the water-jet loom, then the air-jet loom may make a great difference in the filament weaving industry and become a trend that cannot be ignored in the development of the industry.

　　2, weaving process automation is an important topic of textile intelligence.

Intelligent weaving system has become the mainstream of textile machinery manufacturing. In the past, the single-machine automation and intelligence we pursued have been basically realized: the single-machine automation of textile processes such as warp adjustment and sizing can be basically realized; For example, cotton spinning has a thickness-fine connection, fine-wire connection integration, intelligent spinning demonstration line, etc. The production efficiency can reach 10 people with 10,000 spindles. Some enterprises are trying to use automatic joints of spinning machines. At present, the most difficult thing is the automation and intelligence of the weaving process, that is, how to automatically connect the processes of warp, sizing, and automatic warp threading, buckle threading and automatic loading after the warp is the difficulty of weaving automation, and it is also a problem that must be solved in the future intelligence.

At present, Staubil's automatic warp threading machine and warp knitting machine, Tsudakoma's sizing machine and pulp yarn machine, and Karl Meier's warping machine are all the best advanced textile equipment in the world. It is necessary for us to unite the leading domestic textile machinery enterprises and international textile machinery advanced enterprises to discuss loom automation and intelligence, and strive to make some practical results.

During the "13th Five-Year Plan" period, the China Textile Industry Federation launched six intelligent production demonstration lines in the textile industry, including intelligent spinning production line, intelligent knitting production line, intelligent printing and dyeing production line, intelligent non-woven fabric production line, intelligent polyester filament production line and automatic garment sewing production line. Among them, intelligent production lines for spinning, polyester filament, non-woven fabric and garment sewing have basically matured and can be promoted in small batches, but knitting and printing and dyeing are more complicated, some are still in the wiring, not fully automated. During the "14th Five-Year Plan" period, we will put forward higher requirements for intelligent production: first, we must actively promote mature production lines; secondly, in addition to the six lines that were launched during the "13th Five-Year Plan" period and have been produced in small batches, we will launch Some new content, such as the intelligence of the weaving process. This is a question that requires entrepreneurs and experts to think together. I believe that the Filament Weaving Association will also solicit relevant opinions when preparing the "14th Five-Year Plan.

During the "14th Five-Year Plan" period, the textile industry is likely to continue to develop at a low speed. It is hoped that the entire industry can achieve growth in the low-speed development. This growth is not for every company to grow, every industry to grow, and not every region. All growth is a growth that is constantly adjusting-some areas will decrease, some areas will increase, some enterprises will close, and some enterprises will grow bigger. In this process of low-speed adjustment, the improvement of technical level and the improvement of production efficiency are our ultimate goals. If the per capita added value of the textile industry can reach the world's advanced level, our position as a "textile power" will be stable and can be maintained.