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CTEI NetworkThe textile production practice of the people of all ethnic groups in our country has a long origin and a wide range, which has a deep impact on the people's material and spiritual life. Therefore, the ancient textile-related text materials are very rich, in my Chinese culture in a special position. In the Han language, there are a large number of words and vocabulary related to textile production. For example, in the oracle bone inscriptions that have been discovered, there are more than 100 words next to "charm. In the "Shuowen Jiezi" compiled by the Eastern Han Dynasty, there are 267 words next to "charm", as well as the word "towel" and the word "clothing", etc., all of which are directly and indirectly related to textiles. These words reflect the textile production practices and results that have been prevalent before it first appeared. Some of these ancient characters are very rare today, and even computer intelligent software cannot recognize them, but they vividly reflect the appearance of the beginning, formation and development of my country's textile industry.

　　It is related to hemp:

The earliest textile technology mastered by our ancestors was the use of hemp fibers, which can be traced back to about 5000 years ago.

The use of kudzu fiber is very early, there are wild and artificial cultivation. There are dozens of places in the Book of Songs that involve the collection and weaving of Ge. In ancient times, it was called fine kudzu (sound stop) and coarse kudzu (sound system). In order to ensure the supply of Ge fiber needed for weaving, clothing and shoes, the Zhou Dynasty set up a special official position called "Zhang Ge", which was specially responsible for the collection and cultivation of Ge. After the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the application of Ge gradually declined. In the poem "Huang Ge" written by Li Bai, a poet in the Tang Dynasty, it is interesting to mention that "Huang Ge was born in Luoxi………………… Although it is out of date, it is a trace in the hands of a concubine." Later its status was gradually replaced by hemp.

China began to appear early in the artificial cultivation of marijuana, known as the male strain of marijuana (Yin Xi), to the Shang and Zhou generations have been very common. During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, wars were frequent. At that time, most of the army's clothing was linen, so the feudal dynasties paid more attention to it. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, hemp production spread throughout the Yellow River, the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River and Xinjiang. People have mastered the new method of identifying the quality of hemp skin and collected hemp according to the new method, which greatly improved the quality of hemp fiber.

Another word ramie (sound live), refers to ramie. In the Zhou Dynasty, ramie was "filled with ramie", indicating that ramie had already begun to be planted artificially. Its distribution area is not as widespread as hemp, but it can be seen in the Yangtze River Basin and the Yellow River Basin. In recent years, several times in Shaanxi Baoji and Fufeng found the Western Zhou Dynasty linen, after analysis are ramie fabrics. Ramie fiber is white and slender, suitable for weaving into high-quality fabrics, and is one of the important textile fiber raw materials in the Shang and Zhou dynasties.

The initial processing technology of hemp plant fiber in spinning and performance has developed rapidly, and the technology of retting and cooking is becoming more and more complete, which has been the bulk clothing of ordinary people for a long time. In ancient times called "cloth", mainly refers to the hemp fabric. Because the cloth is the common people daily use of cloth, so the common people also known as "cloth". Hemp fabrics until the Song Dynasty, its status was gradually replaced by cotton.

　　Related to silk: noil, lettering, valerian

China is the hometown of silk in the world. Sericulture and silk reeling originated the earliest and spread widely. In ancient China, there was a legend of "teaching people to raise silkworms. The primary processing technology of silk has developed rapidly, and there is a specialized division of labor. For example, there is a post specializing in noil (sound pumping) in the workshops of the government, which is responsible for drawing silk. From the Xia Dynasty to the Warring States period, silk fabrics were collectively known as Zengzeng (sound increase). People can not only produce colorful silk fabrics, but also have been able to classify and name them according to the thickness, thickness, density, texture and raw and cooked of the fabrics. Therefore, silk fabrics appear most frequently in ancient literature, such as gauze, yarn, tuft, striped striped striped striped striped striped striped striped, striped striped, striped, luo, yee, brocade, and so on.

With the development of silk fabrics, the technology of dyeing and printing is becoming more and more sophisticated, and the printing process is innovated, called valerian (Yin Association), including dyeing methods such as valerian, twisted valerian, wax valerian, etc., making valuable contributions to China's printing and dyeing technology. Clipping valerian is to use two patterned flower plates to fold the silk and silk in half and clip them between the two plates, then apply dye or color paste to the hollow, remove the hollow plate, and the symmetrical pattern can be displayed. The technology is the most practical and gradually popular in the whole country. Stringing valerian is to tie the cloth into locks with threads, and after dyeing, release its own pattern. Finally, a pattern with dark and shallow shading effect appears on the cloth; wax valerian is batik. The pattern is made on silk first, then coated with beeswax according to the sample, immersed in dye, and the pattern is reproduced when the wax falls off. Using this printing method, you can get a special style of products, in modern times still retain this dyeing method.

The sericulture and silk industry has been in a leading position in China's textile production. Mulberry planting, silkworm breeding, silk reeling, silk weaving technology has been developed in an all-round way, and the level of silk textile technology is much higher than that of other fiber processing technology. With the development of the whole society and economy, the center of sericulture and silk industry appeared. Later, it slowly spread to foreign countries through various channels, and successively opened the famous "Silk Road" and "Maritime Silk Road", which made China's silk products famous in the world, and combined with the creation of local people, greatly improved the level of silk production and had a great impact.

　　It is related to wool:, yak, yinan, brown

The history of China's use of wool fibers can be traced back to a very distant era. As early as the early Xia Dynasty, the fraternal peoples located in the north and northwest already had processed fur and wool textiles. Since the Stone Age, with the improvement of hunting technology and the development of animal husbandry, this type of fiber has been used, but the proportion used is lower than that of plant fiber.

Wool is the bulk of wool fiber at that time, sheep word simple and vivid, has been preserved from ancient times. There is also a (sound ancient) refers to the goat, the use of cashmere in the textile history is also very long, Xinjiang is one of the origin of cashmere. The ancient fraternal ethnic groups used yak wool for weaving very early. For example, the ancestors of the Tibetans, the Western Qiang people, lived nomadic in Gansu, Sichuan, Qinghai, Tibet and other places. Ancient books record that the tents they lived in were "weaving yak tails or covering wool". Yak (sound hair) is yak.

In ancient times, fine woolen fabrics were collectively referred to as ying (sound is), while thick ones were collectively referred to as brown (sound is not rare). "Poetry, Bin Feng, July" said, "No clothes, no brown, why died", very popular. The brown finger coarse wool fabric here was one of the main clothing materials for the working people in the north at that time. The fine and high-grade wool fabrics are mostly enjoyed by the nobility and the wealthy.

In the Yuan Dynasty, the demand for wool textiles increased sharply because they were traditional fabrics loved by the Mongolian people, and the scale of wool textile production had a new development compared with the previous generation. There are many natural pastures in our country, and the people of all ethnic groups living there have accumulated rich experience in sheep raising and wool fiber processing and utilization. Although the cultural relics of wool textiles buried in the ground have been excavated one after another, they are much less than those of silk and hemp textiles, and need to be further excavated and sorted out.

　　Related to cotton: No, No.

The earliest cultivation and utilization of cotton in China began in the Han Dynasty from Hainan Island, southwest and northwest regions, much later than hemp, silk and wool. Cotton was planted and used for weaving in Xinjiang during the Northern and Southern Dynasties. In ancient China, there is no cotton word, only cotton word, refers to silk. With the increasing number of cotton fabrics, in order to distinguish them from cocoons, the cotton characters of today evolved between the 6th and 11th centuries.

There are two types of cotton: annual and perennial. One-year-old cotton, known as Ku (Yin Yi), was planted artificially and popularized in Song and Yuan dynasties. Perennial cotton generally refers to kapok in the south, called Yu (Yin Die), mostly wild. Cotton is an excellent textile raw material. Wang Zhen's "Nongshu" said: "It is not silkworm but cotton, not hemp but cloth, and it is also used as a substitute for felt to make up clothes and brown." It compares cotton with silk, hemp, and wool. Superiority.

At the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, a large number of intellectuals and upper-class figures from the north moved to the south of the Yangtze River, and the social economy in the south became increasingly prosperous. In the early years of the Yuan Dynasty, cotton textile technology in the Songjiang area of the Yangtze River Basin developed rapidly, surpassing Fujian and Guangdong regions, and gradually formed the center of the manual cotton textile industry. Huang Daopo's production activities made important contributions. In the Ming Dynasty, the cotton textile industry gradually spread throughout the country. This is mainly due to the fact that cotton fiber has the excellent characteristics listed in Wang Zhen's "Nongshu Kapok Preface" that "compared with silkworm, there is no work to harvest and raise it, and it has the effect of harvesting it." In addition, after years of practice, many new cotton varieties have been cultivated, which are suitable for planting in different climates, it brings development opportunities to places that are not suitable for growing food and other cash crops. More importantly, only the large-scale cultivation of cotton can meet the clothing needs of the growing population.

Therefore, cotton has gradually replaced hemp as the people's daily clothing raw materials, in terms of quantity is far more than silk. By the beginning of the 19th century, China's cotton cloth was exported to Western Europe, reaching three million horses per year. Since then, cotton has become the main raw material in China's textile industry.